First time selling on eBay, for beginners” dark web cc shop

First sales on eBay, for beginners

This article is dedicated to newbies and those who are still choosing “where to start”; it is not meant to be a complete description of the methods and schemes of working with an auction, though that is better.

A short digression. eBay is a world-famous online auction site that first originated in the United States (headquartered in California), where it has become most widespread and developed. At the moment, the auction counts about 90,000,000 registered users worldwide, and the revenues for 2004 amounted to 3.27 billion dollars. The net profit of eBay Inc. was 915 million USD. The above figures indicate that it is quite a tidbit pie for representatives of “shadow commerce on the net”…

This article will cover the basics of dealing with US eBay.

Where do I start? The first thing you need to do before you start working with eBay is to learn the language in which you’ll be communicating with your “customers”. If you don’t speak the language, consider eBay closed to you because trading is all about communication, and without communication you’re not likely to sell anything at all.

You’re new, you have no money, you have no experience and nothing at all… Sad.

If you don’t have friends who can help you at the initial stage (throw you some accounts or few juxtapositions) you will need some money (you will not be able to start from scratch, alas). The first thing you will need is some valid cards with cvv code (cards should be American, preferably VISA or MC) and some sokservers (also American).

A small digression I would like to say a few words on the technical aspects of working with eBay. For successful working it’s enough to have US ip, no matter if it’s the same city or even state of the Holder or not, eBay doesn’t check system language (you can work with Russian winnda), it doesn’t check system time (eBay has official time which is the same as Pacific Daylight Time (PDT) because it’s headquartered in California (GMT -8)), in general I recommend to set system time to be the same as PDT or the drop time zone. E-mail is fine with mail.yahoo.com, especially because it has a good spam filter, which comes in handy when you’re getting mail “from eBay” with threesomes in it… You should be more careful with mail, in no case you should not open any mail that you didn’t expect to receive. If you receive an email from eBay with the subject line: Password reset, Account suspended, etc. don’t open it! Go to ebay.com and see what’s what. Otherwise, there’s a good chance you’ll get a trio and your bangers will be scammed instead of you

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Sellers account registration Besides the general data you will be asked to state Primary telephone, Secondary telephone, Date of Birth. It’s better not to specify a phone which does not belong to the provider, but it does belong to the same geographic location where the provider lives; it’s not recommended to specify a phone number from the “always busy” database, which you can find, for example, in the cc2b program; eBay has these phones and if you provide one of them, you will be asked to verify the number, without which you won’t be able to continue using your account or even to change the number. The same goes for toll-free phones and cell phones (but not always). If you have an account with good amount of feeds – then it makes sense to buy a number in the states (forwarding) and put this number to your account data, then you’ll be able to communicate with a buyer directly – and this is the key to a successful transaction. You’ll also be able to unlock your account if it gets locked temporarily, so knock on eBay Live Help and tell them you’re the owner and take their call.

After you confirm your registration by clicking the link in the email you will receive a fully fledged merchant account with 0 feed-backs, now click the sell button to start the registration of a merchant account. You will be asked to enter the details of the Holder and his card. After that you will be requested to enter the holding provider’s cheque account details (bank name, routing number, and the account number itself). Naturally, you do not have the account information of the holding company, but you don’t need it. All you need is to correctly specify the name of your bank and its routing number (punched through the card number with the same cc2b), you may specify any account number, but if you accidentally enter a number that is already present on eBay – your fresh account will be locked the very next day.

Bidding and bidding process With zero accounts you can do two things: 1) put inexpensive goods for sale (up to $600) 2) spin them up a bit and put out more expensive goods (up to $1000)

A small digression It makes perfect sense to place lots from 5 AM to 9 PM PDT, because good Americans sleep the rest of the time. The same applies to the time of contact with the buyers (via phone and e-mail). The sellers themselves recommend placing lots between 5 PM and 7 PM (PDT), as this is when buying activity reaches its peak.

Account promotion You’ll need some imagination and patience to promote your accounts.

A small digression Please note that after registering for 30 days there will be a newbie icon next to your user_id on eBay, these accounts are almost useless for selling for any serious amount, because they make buyers very suspicious, so either you can engage in their promotion or set aside a month and then exhibit the goods for regular US bangers.

For the beginning, most of the new aces exhibit inexpensive goods, preferably used, so as not to attract undue attention. Next, you take and buy goods by their own sellers / buyers, “make payment, shipping”, leave a positive feedback, put more product; in principle, for the beginning is sufficient 1-3 good feeds from the dealers / sellers (even with 0 feedbacks), so you can put the product more expensive. But keep in mind that every single item you place costs money, and that will eventually be deducted from the Holder’s account, which might lead to premature account suspension. Money is deducted from the account by eBay once a month.

In case your item was accidentally bought by a real banger, you’ll have to make some effort to excuse yourself from the sale and make a relist. It’s common to write that the item is broken/lost/was sold offline. Of course you can try to change the registration information after the auction is over and try to fool the barer into a check or money order, but as a rule it doesn’t lead to anything good.

Also, posting multiple items at once in order to accelerate the markup process is not successful. This will only be successful if you list some unpopular and cheap items, but barers tend to look at previous reviews and the lots for which they were obtained.

Selling from zero accounts Before you will sell you need to find a dropper who will accept payments from buyers on his name and address. So before you have to change the information about the owner of the account. You can change the phone, you can without. After that, you can immediately put the lot.

A small digression A few words about bidding. Null lots are suitable for putting up cheap items, better second-hand ones up to $600. Before you decide to put an item in a category you would like to see, you should read up on what kind of descriptions are written by most typical Americans. When you put the lot you may need a picture of your product (although this is not required), where and how to get photos of an object think yourself, but their presence greatly increases the confidence of buyers. An important part of any lot – how to pay. Under no circumstances should you write Western Union or MoneyGram, usually specify Check/Money Order/Others and that’s enough. Do not say that you accept PayPal, because accepting payment by drop-shopper is a very questionable business and usually ends badly, and to get rid of the “Baer” will be very difficult. Also do not agree to BidPay, COD (Cash on Delivery) and other payment methods which imply the presence of some third party.

I will not write about how to get rid of the stick, how to call the bar, etc., as it is beyond the scope of this article.

After selling an item and agreeing with the buyer, you just have to wait until the payment reaches the drop and hope that you will not be cheated by a dropper or nalshchik. Good luck!

The rights to this article belong to the author. Reprinting, using parts of it, etc. for personal purposes on other resources is only permitted with the author’s verbal agreement.

Copyright (C) 2005 BD1

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